Originally published in the March 2020 issue of San Diego CityBeat
When Fred Piehl purchased the restaurant that he would turn into The Smoking Goat off of Craigslist ten years ago, the sleepy corner of 30th and Upas was not yet a culinary destination. Now, the french bistro sits across from trendy Underbelly, Influx, and the Modern Times Flavordome at the mouth of the 30th street dining thoroughfare.
While the neighborhood has been transformed, The Smoking Goat has held steadfast in its vision. Piehl shares, “I’m still involved in basically every aspect of the restaurant. Earlier on, I thought I needed to update the menu with every available ingredient at all times, and I was changing the menu weekly. But over time I found that guests really wanted to return to something they had eaten before. So, as I developed as a chef, I have learned to strive for excellence with each dish in the form of consistency.”
While so many restaurants in San Diego struggle to stand the test of time, The Smoking Goat has endured because of this persistent approach. Piehl offers, “There have been countless new restaurants that have opened since we did ten years ago, and we never felt the urge to change what we do to stay relevant in a trendy way. We knew that if we focused on what we do well and what people kept ordering again and again, we would solidify our place in the San Diego dining community.”
Sitting in the Goat, as its affectionately called, the timeless appeal is pronounced, feeling both rustic and elegant at the same time. Around the restaurant, diners are deep in conversation, their hands clutching forks or glasses of wine instead of cell phones. The Goat isn’t just a place you go for an occasion, its the restaurant you turn to when you want to make an average night a little less mundane. Even the chef’s counter is an unpretentious, accessible affair. There is no special pre-fixe menu at the chef’s counter, just a glimpse into the kitchen and an opportunity to chat with Piehl, Sous Chef Max Willis, and even the line cooks and food runners.
Four specialties from 2010 continue on The Smoking Goat menu today. First, a traditionally prepared Escargots à la Bourguignonne, prepared with a generous scoop of herb butter and served with toasted sourdough. Piehl worked diligently to find the perfect ratio of herbs to butter for the sauce, to create an aromatic accent to the Burgundy snails. Their 14 ounce bone-in New York Strip is amplified with a red wine bordelaise sauce. As a side, the famous Duckfat Truffle Fries require a multi-day process to perfect before being sprinkled with pecorino romano and served with mustard aioli. Finally, on the dessert menu, the namesake Goat Cheese Cheesecake brings the tartness of goat cheese to the creamy dessert, topped with a seasonal selection of poached fruit. All four classic dishes have become neighborhood favorites because of their dedication to technique, not novelty.
For their ten year anniversary on February 19, The Smoking Goat is celebrating with complimentary birthday sweets and champagne for guests who come in for dinner. While the community is raising a glass to the future of the bistro, Piehl will be in the kitchen, as usual, cooking with the consistency that has helped them succeed this past decade. Reflecting on the milestone, Piehl shares, “I have received advice over the years to cater to what I think are fleeting trends, but that never felt right to me. Maybe I am an old soul at heart, but there is beauty in simplicity and familiarity.”
The Smoking Goat
3408 30th St, San Diego, CA 92104
(619) 955-5295
