Words by Nabeelah Khan. Photos by Haley Hill.
Arriving at Cardellino you’re immediately struck by the expansive space this restaurant occupies. Take a closer look at the menu and you understand why. The Trust group’s fourth offering is bakery by morning, lunch spot by day and hip dinner spot after five. Located in the cozy Mission Hills district, a neighborhood that has quietly been punching above its weight when it comes to good food, Cardellino’s on Goldfinch solidifies the neighborhood’s cred as a bona fide food hub.
Breakfast at Cardellino can be a simple affair, expertly taken to the next level. A range of house-made pastries, Italian-style coffee courtesy of Mission Hills roaster Heartwork and obligatory avocado toast shares the menu with hearty staples from oatmeal, yogurt ‘n’ berries, soft scrambled eggs and vanilla pancakes. The wild mushroom omelette, fried bologna sandwich and bruléed grapefruit illustrate that Italian cuisine is the name of their game, but Cardellino is also brazenly Californian. Chilaquilas rojas are served alongside huevos rancheros, and the Dassi tomato scramble nods to a family-farm based locally in Leucadia.
After 11am, the lunch menu unleashes the restaurant’s signature pizzas. From favorites like margarita and pepperoni along with the veggie-forward fungi and meat lovers salsicce (Italian sausage), there’s something for every palate. If a sandwich or salad is more your lunch vibe, the grilled chicken sandwich, burger, Cubano pulled pork, grain salad or burrata will hit the spot. And, for those who want a little of everything, the tramezzino pizza crust sandwich brings together prosciutto, arugula, burrata, garlic, herbs and green salad. The Rhythm 77 and Neon Tiger signature cocktails are on-tap and available at lunch and are refreshing enough to be enjoyed without ruining your afternoon.
As you’d expect, Cardellino’s dinner menu is where Chef Brad Wise shines. Antipasti can be enjoyed on in the main dining room, patio, or the private dining room if you’re hosting an event and inviting fifteen of your closest friends. The chef’s bread service is a must to start (this is a bakery after all) as is the delicate, yet zesty Hamachi crudo. The lamb chops with chimichurri transports you to a place that isn’t your grandmother’s Italian, but the range of freshly made pasta brings you right back. The fresh creste & chopped clams are a perfect balance of garlic, onion, white wine, herb and butter, with a dash of clam that is more like a umami infusion than anything resembling fishy. The fusilli piccanti alla vodka has the right amount of chili kick, and the raditori al pesto is simply delightful. The pizza list has more depth after 5pm featuring hen eggs and caramelized onions.
If there’s any room for dessert, the ricotta cheesecake is given new life with a pistachio base. And, the earl grey budino with orange blossom caramel, honey Chantilly and biscotti, elevates the typical crème brulee.
Wines are available by the bottle or glass, and the signature cocktails are a must. The bar staff at Cardellino know how to mix and shake it with the best. The menu lists from fresh and fruity to more complex and spirit forward, helping guide your choice based on the occasion and mood. You’ll be hard pressed to find a moment you’re not in the mood for adult slushies – think, boozy Italian ice – and you know if ingredients like white peppercorn, caramelized pineapple and hibiscus are in your drink rather than the food, you’re in for something special.
While the walls at Cardellino may suggest the wine tells the truth (el vinocie, la verita is written in oversized bold letters behind the bar), Cardellino truly embodies the spirit of la dolce vita. The sweet life. A place to be enjoyed, convivially, with family and friends. Perhaps somewhere you want to sit down and stay a while.
Cardellino Restaurant https://cardellinosd.com/restaurant/ 4033 Goldfinch St, San Diego, 92103
