Tucked away in a forgotten block of India Street in Little Italy, fourteen strangers huddle around a front porch stoop, peering through the windows at a gorgeously set dinner table. At 8 o’clock exactly, we catch a glimpse of a bear in an apron and chef hat and we grin excitedly. It’s Osa Bear, the famed and mysterious chef of a pop up dinner party revered by those in the know – Cow by Bear. Why a bear costume? Some may find it gimmicky, but the entire experience of Cow by Bear transports you into another world, so a bear chef is actually fitting. The secret location, the wait to get a reservation, not knowing your dining companions — it all adds to the exciting mystery of an evening eating an extravagant feast prepared by a bear.
Here is the run down. Operating out of several secret San Diego locations, dinners book out weeks or months in advance. You received an email the day prior with the location along with the dress code (there is none) and timeline for the evening. Dinners take place every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night at 8pm. Each dinner is reserved to 14 guests in a communal, social setting. An epic five-course tasting menu is highlighted by their 50-day dry aged ribeye roast and fine wine pairings. Dinner is a prepaid flat fee of $195 per person (includes drink pairings, tax, and gratuity). Dietary restrictions can be accommodated, just let them know at least two weeks in advance. Menus change nightly.
The backstory is that Cow by Bear is the vision of an Alaskan brown bear named Chef Bear. Bear arrived in San Diego in 2011 and launched Cow by Bear, initially out of his own apartment. After six years, he relocated to Seattle to open up Cow by Bear Seattle. The San Diego location continues to operate under the guidance of head chef Osa Bear and their protege and son, Lil’ Osito Bear, who runs their Brunch by Bear offering.
What is truly impressive about Cow by Bear is the attention to detail. Every piece of cutlery, glassware, and table decor is interesting without being overbearing. The dining room is inviting and whimsical, without distracting from the food. Since Osa Bear does not talk (it seems), a one-woman-wonder named Jill welcomes us, pours our drinks, serves our food, answers our questions, and, near the end, takes polaroids of each couple with Osa Bear. Along the way, the fourteen strangers become fast friends, fueled by shots of rum in celebration of the birthdays and anniversaries around the table.
Second Course (Not pictured) – Fourth Planet from the Sun soup. Red lentil soup with roasted chicken, pickled cauliflower, and green harissa. While I didn’t think anything could outshine the salad course, the soup was an explosion of flavor that had me licking the bowl. The spices were reminiscent of a curry, which the pickled cauliflower perfectly contrasted with its bright acidity.
Fourth Course – Cow by Bear steak. 50 day dry aged ribeye served with potato puree, baby broccoli, and topped with blue cheese butter. This is the signature steak that put Cow by Bear on the map. If you’ve never had a dry aged steak, you’ve never had a steak. Cow by Bear roasts it, sealing in the delicious flavor.
Fifth Course – The Dessert we Share. Ricotta fritters served with pistachio gelato and rasbeary rose jam. Don’t worry – you don’t actually have to share! A perfectly light yet decadent end to an extraordinary meal.
